This article contains spoilers of Episode 9 of the last season of "Succession."
The funeral of Logan Roy was inevitable. The Roy children have finally had the opportunity to mourn their father in a formal way after several episodes of planning. It wouldn't have been a Roy gathering without a little wheeling and dealing. Logan's estranged son gave a surprise eulogy. Public relations plans were in place, and there was also the chaos of protests following a disputed vote.
The Roy children wore the same dress code as the funeral guests. Logan's mistresses and wives dressed as widows in their own unique way. This created a tableau that portrayed the women who knew the other side of the man known for'making life happen'.
Jessica Testa: I was wondering this week: Does Roman Roy ever read our style recaps. His immediate comment upon seeing Marcia in Logan's funeral - 'Marcia is looking chic' - is something we would all say, if not already during her (one) appearance this season. This is her first (one!) real appearance of the season. We wouldn't, um, be as crude about it.
Vanessa Friedman: It's interesting that Caroline, Logan’s first wife, and she were the only two wearing hats.
Guy Trebay: The restraint of the costume designer Michelle Matland has been impressive throughout her work.
JT: Nobody was interested in peacocking with all the powerful people present. The writings tell us repeatedly that the world's most powerful people are there. Maybe that was the point. True power is never having to peacock.
VF: Then there was Logan’s brother, completely alone in a turtleneck blazer.
Anna Grace Lee : Of course, a subtly plaid jacket.
This really highlighted the fact that he is different from his brother's work.
JT: Caroline's reappearance was wonderful. Shiv's mom immediately noticing her pregnancy, when her brothers were either ignorant or ignoring it, was perfect. And the fact that the wives and mistresses were brought together was strangely nice for a character who is so unkind.
She had a large emerald brooch. It was almost like a "I got a large settlement" flag.
Gt: We tend to forget how important anatomy is for fashion. This has been shown repeatedly in this series. People are atypical in height. From Roman's 5-foot-6, to Greg's 6-foot-7 geeky stature -- as opposed the Hollywood median male actor of 5-foot-10. The state of artificial preservation is also a factor. Caroline's weathered, wrinkle-free face contrasted sharply with the Botox-free faces that have become the norm.
Marcia, too, is clearly a'mature' woman.
GT: The'matured' actresses were not born in the United States.
Stella Bugbee : The costumes of four women who adored Logan looked best when they sat together.
The image of the quartet in a church was amazing. It brought Logan to life more than words could.
Kendall's speech is quite remarkable. He said that his father was driven by a desire to be seen and to be known. This seemed to reflect tensions within the children. Both want to be noticed (or seen in a certain way) and this is what drives their dressing.
Kendall looks so happy, even though he is grieving, to finally be out of Logan Logan's shadow.
Kendall's gray herringbone tweed coat, with its collar standing just so in the cemetery, was an overcoat of power -- a mantle that one could assume.
GT: I thought the coat was a bit off, stiff and unfitting. It looked too country (with its deep inverted vent at the back) to be a power jacket.
JT: Were you surprised by Logan's Stalinesque tomb? They seemed to be. This was further evidence that they didn't know him.
AGL: It was morbid and wrong to discuss the mausoleum's price in a lighthearted manner -- $5 million is a 'good deal.'
Does anyone know if it was Woodlawn Cemetery? The church where Jacqueline Onassis was buried was St. Ignatius Loyola.
VF: Also Oscar de la Renta's memorial.
SB: Roman's monologue from the beginning, when he strokes his beard, which he is clearly growing, because it looks just like his father's. To the end, when he runs against the unruly protesters, dressed in his suit.
GT: Applying moisturizer with a squib.
You have no idea how hard I tried to zoom on the brand.
Logan is unlikely to have used moisturizer on his face or been punched.
GT: It seems that Ms. Matland is slowly shrinking Roman through his clothing. The slightly too high waist trousers made him appear even smaller. This amplified his harrowing pulpit transformation from warehouse rat into sobbing child.
What do you think of the way Matsson cleaned it up?
AGL: It was eerie to see Matsson dressed in a suit and pretending to be a normal person.